Siena, from an insiders perspective

Today while i was sat on the steps by the duomo i heard an American girl say to her friend “Wouldn’t it be great to study here! can you imagine?!”

Well, random American girl, i hope you somehow manage to find this blog because i am going to give you the inside scoop to setting yourself up here and staying for a period of time! Lets go…..

Finding somewhere to live
I’m going to go against the most common nugget of advice here and say that although a lot of people would recommend finding a place to live before you arrive, i personally think that it’s much easier to find something when you’re actually here.

There aren’t many cheap places to stay in Siena but it would be perfectly feasable to book a room at CASA DI ALFREDO ( for a week and look once you arrive. To do so all you need to do is get yourself to the tourist office or look on the many notice boards around the unviersity which are always full at the beginning of the year of advertisements for places. I say this because out here you really need to look round the accomodation before you agree to anything and check with your landlord regarding the facilities in your prospective house.

Be aware that single rooms can be rather costly *upwards of 400 euros*

If you want to get something cheap look for a “posto letto”  or a “doppia” (double) but be aware that this will be a bed in a shared room

For those who would feel better finding somewhere before you leave, the two best websites are:

Getting around
A good thing with Siena is that as long as you live “dentro le mura” (inside the city walls), you can feasibly walk anywhere in the city- nowhere is out of the way and the longest you’ll have to walk is 30 minutes (or 40 if you go at snails pace)

If you do need to take a bus you can buy tickets from local newsagents and shops and they cost 1 euro for a single ticket. To be honest i’ve only ever been on the bus 3 or 4 times since i got here and that was to go to the big supermarket out of town, or when i was too lazy to do the 30 minute walk to the train station!

You’re supposed to stamp your bus ticket when you get on the bus and if you get checked and haven’t done it there is a fine to pay. I have never seen a “checker” and i’ve been living here over a month now, a lot of things in Italy are based on trust that you will do what you’re supposed to do. (this goes for the bars too, it is quite easy to walk out of a bar without paying as the Italians are strangely disorganised, give you what you want and trust you to tell them what you had before you leave. I am of course, not in anyway condoning theft, but just making you aware of how things work here)

Studying in Siena
I am studying at the Universita Degli Studi di Siena. There are many different faculties dotted around the town, i’m at Scienze Politiche. I must say I don’t even check for opening hours and schedules anymore as I know they don’t mean anything, the organisation of the University here can only be described as a compete chaotic mess. It can be difficult to sort out a timetable without your options clashing. Offices are only open at certain time of the day and you have to queue at a certain time on a certain day to speak to a certain professor.  It is a good idea to check the website and faculty notice boards constantly, because lesson times and locations change without warning, whats even more frustrating can be the fact that you show up for a lesson that is cancelled with no prior-warning. You quickly get used to all this though and adapt to the system, as long as you adjust and learn to be self sufficient and a little more care free, things will work well for you here.
You have to find out when and where you need to be and manually sign yourself up  for your exams, i’m yet to have done this yet but it all gets explained to you upon arrival to siena when you register at the university.

Travelling further afield.
Siena has good links with many places such as Florence and Rome
You can even easily get as far as Venice and Milan thanks to SENA buses which leave from Piazza Gramsci and generally cost a lot less than a train. There is a direct bus to Florence at a cost of 7 euros which is definitely worth it. It’s also better to leave on a bus from Piazza Gramsci as it is in a more central/easily reachable location (Siena train station is a little further out)

Eating in Siena
Once you enrol at the university you’ll be given a MENSA card. The Mensa is the university cafeteria, there are two in Siena (One on Via S. Bandini and the other is Mensa St Agata near Via Andrea Mattioli)
Most Italian students eat here every night rather than cooking as it’s cheap, easy and good for socialisng. A meal (starter, main, desert + fruit + unlimited drinks) would cost around 2.50/3 euros

My favourite places to eat are:
1. El Gringo, Via Pantaneto.
A  Mexican restaurant where you can get proper nachos, tortillas and chile con carne. Its colorful and cheap, but you do have to eat on plastic plates! the best thing about this place is that they deliver so if you are too lazy to leave your house you can get tasty mexican food brought right to your door
2. Gelateria Kopakabana, Via Rossi
For the best and most generous portion of gelato in Siena you should go and see Stella in her ice cream shop not far from the faculty of political sciences, don’t go and get ice cream near the campo unless you want to pay about twice as much!
3. Trattoria Dino, Casato di Sopra
This little place does the best spaghetti bolognese i’ve tasted since i’ve been here for only 5 euros, and they will let you take it away in a box if you want. Its normally always full of old people, but they’re very friendly and talkative, its great for practising italian!!

Shopping in Siena
Attention those who like to shop!!!!!! SIENA IS EXPENSIVE. All you will find here are small independent and pricey shops with not a lot of choice. The best place is probably OVS which do a few thing for the younger generation but its still generally very expensive and not overly fashionable. For the nearest H&M you need to head to Florence on that 7 euro bus!

As for food shopping, you have two CONAD small supermarkets in the walls of the city aswell as a few smaller shops called “SMA BOTTEGA”, if you’re prepared to go a bit further/take a bus you can go to bigger “proper” supermarkets such as PAM, the COOP (both at the trainstation) and the big CONAD(on the number 3 bus route)

Keeping Fit
I’ve noticed that before you go on your year abroad no one ever tells you about gyms or places to exercise because they think you will spend the whole year milling around the Tuscan hills in your maxi dress and sunnies while eating a gelato (they’re not far wrong to be honest)
However if you’re here long enough you need to get yourself into some sort of routine as you would be back home or else you’ll slowly go stir crazy. For a lot of people this means exercising, for me it’s swimming.
There are a couple of gyms in Siena. Like everything here they are very expensive at about 60 euros a month but at GOLD GYM you can take any classes you like during the week and it is included in this price.
As for swimming you only really have one choice as although there are two pools, one is simply too far out to reach. However, near Porta Camollia in Piazza G Amendola there is a pool where you can pay 4.90 a time to go for a swim (or 37 euros for 10 entries to save a bit of money)
For those who dance there is the Ateneo della Danza (Via dei Pispini) and for free exercise, don some trainers and go for a jog around the city, it’s so hilly you’ll be losing weight in no time.

The most important part of Siena’s nightlife is Piazza del campo, especially in the summer where it is normal to sit on the floor drinking beer with groups of mates
There are two “clubs” within the walls, Barone Rosso (Thursday/Saturday nights) and Al Cambio (Tuesday ERASMUS parties) They are very small and more like a bar with a dancefloor so Siena is not the place to be for the most diehard of clubbers (although if you venture a little further afield you will find VANILLA, a big “proper” club, the Erasmus group often arrange coaches here with drink deals and discounted entry)
Aperitivo is also a large part of the night time culture in Siena. Most bars do a free buffet that anyone who buys a drink can access, its normally just finger food.
There are a few pubs in Siena, noteably the Irish pub (The Dublin Post in Piazza Gramsci)  and for something a little different with a student vibe you can always go “il tea room” where there are often jazz nights and you can get over 50 types of tea aswell as a range of cocktails and cakes (which are brought out to you on a plate which is on fire… interesting!)

Learning Italian in Siena
Beware that if you come to study here as an ERASMUS exchange student it can be very easy to not speak hardly any Italian. You have to explain to people that you are here to learn Italian and therefore you only want to speak in Italian, and be quite forceful with it.
Because Siena is full of tourists you will probably find that a lot of the shop owners automatically speak to you in English, again you just have to persevere but it can also be quite nice when you don’t want to speak Italian one day because you are tired.
I’d recommend taking a language course which you can arrange with the university and are normally the month before you start lectures.
I’d also say, read some Italian newspapers and watch Italian TV (Although be prepared for repeat of the simpsons, dragonball z and a multitude of random game shows)

The Palio
This is a massive part of Siena and if you are planning to come here you probably already know a little bit about it. Every summer, an important horse race is held in the main square (piazza il campo) called Il Palio
Localised patriotism is a key feature of Sienese culture and it is interesting for an outsider to witness how a modern population still observes medieval tradition. Siena is made up of 17 Contradas (districts), each with their own mascot, flag and colours. Each Contrada sends a horse to compete on July 2nd in the Palio, and if they win then the celebrations go on long after the race has finished

People in Siena
Most people are very friendly but a lot can seem inconsiderate. Especially in the streets. It isn’t uncommon to push and shove in the streets to get through the crowds, this is normal behaviour here. You have to be a little pushy and forward yourself if you want to get things done
The Sienese like many other Tuscans are so used to Tourists that they look down on them quite a lot, it can help to look like you know what you’re doing and not walk around with socks in sandals and a camera strapped round your neck unless you want some dirty looks and to be taken for a bit of a ride!
Like anywhere popular with tourists you have to keep an eye open on thing such as pick pocketing and being ripped off but this is rare and the crime rate in Siena also is very low. It feels very safe waking around late at night and alone (although i’d still recommend staying in a group) You have to be sensible, but from what I hear the types of muggings and crimes reported in places like Rome and Naples are virtually unheard of here.


14 thoughts on “Siena, from an insiders perspective

  1. I strongly agree! I still am stunned this keeps happening time after time in todays day and age. I am so glad I was sitting down for this. We help answer what will happen to this. Lets keep track of this new development in the future.

  2. I totally agree! I’m really startled that this keeps happening time after time these days. I am so glad I am not jogging. The Owners need to know about things in future I need to keep an eye on what is going on moving forward.

  3. That is sick!! I am startled that this was going on in modern day times. This news was well received as I am not jogging. I help answer about things moving forward. I will follow the issue .

  4. I disagree! I am taken aback that this keeps happening time after time in modern day times. I was glad I was not standing. The Boss’ have asked what will happen to this. Lets see what happens and going forth.

  5. I agree! I still am amazed that this keeps going on in todays day and age. I am happy in the fact I was sat down. I would love to need to know about things moving forward. I need to keep an eye on the problem moving forward.

  6. Gobsmacked! I’m really startled that this really went on these days. I am happy in the fact I am not running. I would love to wonder what will happen now?! I need to keep an eye on this situation .

  7. I strongly disagree! It amazes me that this really did happen in modern day times. I was happy I am sat down. I would love to have pondered about the future. Lets watch closely what is going on to this.

  8. WOW!! It amazes me that this went on in modern day times. I was glad I am not running. I would love to know about things moving forward. I will need to know the issue .

  9. This is ace! I’m really startled that this really happened in todays world. I am relieved I am not jogging. We are coming to terms what will happen to this. I need to keep an eye on the change and going forth.

  10. I strongly agree! I still am taken aback that this keeps happening again and again in todays day and age. I am happy in the fact I was not jogging. We wonder for the future. I need to keep an eye on what is happening moving forward.

  11. Ciao! I know this post you made is a bit old, but it came up on my google search and it was exaclty what i needed. I’m moving to Siena for my Erasmus at the universita degli studi di siena this febbraio, and I too study political science and IR. Could you please let me know of an email address where I could reach you? I need to ask a couple of questions, but I promise I won’t trouble you much! Thanks in advance, and great job on your blog!

  12. This is an excellent information you provide in all details. I am about to move to live in Siena for work in summer…I wonder where is best to rent a house? I will have a company car, so I will be able to drive anywhere I want…Are you familiar with International School for children, as my 3 and 6 yr old girls will go there…We are so excited to experience Italy :-)…and yes, is it too hot in summer? Thank you for all info and let’s stay in touch 🙂

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